Topic: Mixing Clay | Making a Clay Gel with a Blender | Mixing Device  (Read 4352 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

  • *****
  • Posts: 358

  • Karma: +19/-1

  • Change to survive then adapt to thrive!
    • View Profile
    • Earth Cures:  Simple Protocols  || Comprehensive Programs ||  In Depth Discussions
Mixing Clay | Making a Clay Gel with a Blender | Mixing Device
« on: December 08, 2019, 01:15:28 PM »
[Email question asking how/should a blender be used to make larger amounts of hydrated clay gel]

Here's what I've come up with.  Now, to be clear, lots of people do use metal mixers/blenders to hydrate clay gel.  The clay is still the clay. It will work, and work well.  But is it the best idea?  No, especially for internal use.

 First and foremost, one should minimize wet clay's exposure to metal alloys.  Mixing it with metal-based stirring devices for a minute is not likely to cause serious harm or even be anything to worry about, especially if the clay is to be externally. 

However, leaving clay in a metal alloy (like a bowl) bowl CAN.  Clay will sorpt metal ions off of non-noble, reactive metal alloys.  If, for example, you get a surface layer contamination of (now rusted) iron, the clay can be contaminated with active tetanus.  This is what I believe caused the only medically documented/reported adverse "event" with clay:  A case of neonatal tetanus.  I think that the individual must have stored wet/hydrtaed clay in a tin can (or similar container) for an extended period of time.

That said, rarely have I ever used a mixer.  I now use the layering method of making hydratred clay gel, which requires no mixing.   It is an art form, and does take some practice.

The other "commercial" solution is to find or make silicon mixing rods/blades.  There is even a silicon powder coating available  that can be done that renders metal alloys non-reactive with a silicon coating.  The problem is, you have to send your equipment off to a special factory.  It is pricey, and who knows how long it will last?

Any non-reactive substance should work well.  I have to find what I would call a perfect solution, if someone does, I'd be glad to post the instructions here.

For metals, I'm more worried about the nickel and other trace impurities in the alloy, I'm not toooo concerned about a tiny amount of ferrous oxide (iron), although clay has plenty of that and doesn't need any more!

I would look into getting an industrial paint mixer, and see if you can find non-reactive attachments; even a very quality grade plastic would be superior to metal alloys... but be sure to change them out before they start to degrade!

If you are interested in the method I pioneered, the "effortless" method, here is a link.  The first link is kind of how and why I developed the method, by studying clay, hot springs, and even rain,  in the clay's natural "habitat".  It is where I learned how important water CAN be when hydrating clay.

When the clay comes right out of the ground from the pure portion of the vein, you would think it is rock.  If you dropped a clay chunk in some water, it would mostly just sit there and do nothing.

But, if you just a bit of water, a few drops, the clay starts crunching and crackling, and starts to break apart by itself.  If you do this over and over again, bit by bit, it makes an amazing clay gel.

Raymond Dextreit taught that clay acts a bit differently if you add water to it, or if you add clay to water.  I never found a translation that documents the how's and why's.

So, my method does both!

You can make a very dense clay, or you can make a very fluffy clay (mixing).


I hope this helps!
« Last Edit: December 08, 2019, 01:51:06 PM by Jason »
Change to survive.  Adapt to thrive.
Jason R. Eaton
Author of Upon a Clay Tablet
Founder of Eytons Earth
Current Project:
 Exploration:  Meditation Program